The Royal Oak has always been more than a watch to me. My first lesson in design purity came from its sharp lines and fluid bracelet, long before I understood who Gérald Genta was or why 1972 mattered. The balance between brushed steel and polished edges made it seem both functional and sculptural, something you could live with every day yet still admire under a loupe. That duality of sporty and refined, simple yet radical, is why the Royal Oak went from a gamble to a cornerstone of modern horology.
This year, as Audemars Piguet celebrates 150 years, the brand has introduced a Royal Oak that feels both like a tribute and a declaration: the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5.
At 39 mm, it preserves the classic Jumbo proportions. The case measures just 8.1 mm thick and is crafted from titanium with bulk metallic glass used for the bezel, studs, pushers, and crown. For the first time in the Jumbo line, Audemars Piguet has combined an extra-thin case with both a flying tourbillon and a flyback chronograph.
The watch is powered by the newly developed Calibre 8100, a selfwinding movement only 4 mm thick with a peripheral rotor, designed from the ground up for this anniversary piece. Its innovations include a rack-and-pinion reset system that replaces the traditional hammer-and-cam architecture, delivering an instantaneous reset that is smoother, faster, and requires less force from the pusher.
The dial stays true to the lineage while signaling progress. Finished in the classic “Bleu Nuit, Nuage 50” Petite Tapisserie, it incorporates two chronograph counters and an aperture at six o’clock for the flying tourbillon. Applied markers and white-gold hands maintain clarity, while the anniversary script “Audemars Piguet” logo marks the occasion. The balance between technical complexity and visual restraint feels deliberate. Finishing is, as expected, immaculate, with vertical satin brushing, polished bevels, and contrasting surfaces that reward time on the wrist.
More than a technical achievement, this watch feels like a statement about where Audemars Piguet sees itself at 150. The Royal Oak defined the brand’s modern identity, and with the RD#5, AP is showing that innovation and heritage are not opposing forces but parallel ones. The integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel keep the watch firmly rooted in history, while the movement inside pushes boundaries.
For collectors, the Royal Oak has always been a benchmark. For the industry, it remains a reminder that risk can become legacy. The new “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Flying Tourbillon Chronograph continues that tradition, carrying forward the Genta design language while proving there are still new ways to tell this story half a century after it began.
Read more about Audemars Piguet here.
