Laurent Ferrier’s new Classic Tourbillon Teal, the seventh in the brand’s Série Atelier, returns to the watch that launched the maison in 2010 and won the GPHG Men’s Watch Prize. The case is the familiar 41 mm Classic form, a smooth, pocket-watch-inspired pebble with a generously rounded crown that invites winding. It is crafted in 950 platinum, which the brand says appears here for the first time in its collection. The heft will be immediate on the wrist, yet the lines remain restrained, almost soft.
Under the front sapphire sits a new dial that keeps faith with the original Classic Tourbillon’s codes. The base plate is white gold, over which a teal grand feu enamel blends blue and green in glossy depth. Roman numerals circle the hours, crisply outlined in white enamel for legibility. The chemin de fer minute track and logo are rendered in sky blue enamel, a tone echoed in the small seconds markings. That seconds display is framed by a bevelled white gold flange, hand polished until it catches the light like a fine chamfer. The hands are also gold, Assegai-shaped for hours and minutes, baton for the seconds. Nothing is superfluous, yet the color brings a fresh pulse to a familiar face.
The movement is what matters here, and Ferrier resists the urge to put it on show through the dial. The hand-wound LF619.01 calibre hides its tourbillon, using it for what Abraham-Louis Breguet intended in 1801, precision. A double balance spring is mounted in opposition to reduce lateral displacement, an old-school chronometric solution executed with extreme care. The power reserve exceeds 80 hours. Viewed through the sapphire back, the finish departs from classic Ferrier stripes. The bridges receive a horizontal satin treatment in ruthenium, while the moving parts, from gears to balance, are rhodium plated for the first time in the brand’s history. The contrast is modern without feeling loud.
Listen while you wind and you will hear another nod to 19th-century chronometry. The long-blade click ratchet has a delicate, mechanical chatter, the sort of detail that lives in memory long after the spec sheet is closed. The tourbillon cage bridge alone carries around thirty interior angles, each finished by hand. Horizontal satin-brushing, frosting, bevels and mirror-polished screws appear where they should, and only because a human decided they must.
Within the broader Ferrier portfolio, the Série Atelier is the discreet channel for small, collector-minded runs. This Sé rie Atelier VII is limited to five individually numbered pieces, sold exclusively through the brand’s website at CHF 195,000 before tax. The release coincides with Geneva Watch Days 2025, a neat bit of timing for a watch that celebrates Ferrier’s origins while updating the decoration and materials.
In today’s market of (sometimes) theatrically openworked tourbillons, a hidden regulator feels almost contrarian. That choice will divide opinions, as it did in 2010, though it speaks directly to collectors who care more about rate stability and finish than about spinning cages on the dial. The teal enamel will also be a talking point. It is distinctive, yet anchored by traditional Roman numerals and a railway track that quietly say classic rather than trendy.
The Classic Tourbillon Teal is not trying to reinvent Ferrier’s wheel. It simply tightens it. Platinum for mass and gravitas, enamel for permanence, a hand-wound tourbillon set up for chronometry rather than spectacle, and finishing that rewards a loupe. For a brand celebrating 15 years on its own path, this is a fitting way to look back and move forward at the same time. Release year 2025, case diameter 41 mm, 950 platinum case, hand-wound LF619.01 double balance spring tourbillon, over 80 hours of power, sapphire back, and a dial that makes teal feel inevitable.
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