The Royal Oak is a watch that rarely needs introduction. Gérald Genta’s design from 1972 challenged expectations of what a luxury watch should be, combining steel, geometry, and integrated design at a time when none of it was considered conventional. Half a century later, its strength lies in balance. Sport and elegance, presence and discretion, versatility without compromise.
Audemars Piguet has now taken that philosophy into its most cerebral complication with the release of two new Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar models in 38 mm. One in stainless steel with a light blue dial. One in 18-carat pink gold with a beige dial. Both are powered by the new Calibre 7136, which delivers technical innovation and practical refinement in equal measure.
A smaller scale
The shift to 38 mm is more than cosmetic. At 9.4 mm thick, with 50 meters of water resistance and luminescent hands and markers, these watches are as usable as they are refined. The 41 mm perpetual calendar has long been admired, but its size can feel assertive. By contrast, the 38 mm brings proportion back to the fore. It wears naturally, quietly, and is unisex in appeal. On smaller wrists the Royal Oak becomes discreet, which feels right for a perpetual calendar.
Two interpretations
The stainless steel model features a 38 mm case with a light blue “Grande Tapisserie” dial, matching subdials, and a silver-grey inner bezel. White gold hands and markers with luminescent material keep the display clear, while the integrated steel bracelet preserves the Royal Oak’s seamless design. Slim at 9.4 mm and water resistant to 50 meters.
The pink gold model shares the same dimensions but offers a different character. Its beige “Grande Tapisserie” dial with matching subdials is framed by a pink gold-toned inner bezel, complemented by luminescent pink gold hands and markers. With its warm tone and integrated bracelet in 18-carat pink gold, it presents the perpetual calendar with an elegance that feels more understated than the larger format.
Calibre 7136
Inside is the new selfwinding Calibre 7136. It runs at 4 Hz, offers a 55-hour power reserve, and is built from 413 components with 41 jewels. The movement drives the full complication set: day, date, month, leap year, astronomical moon, hours and minutes. Three patented mechanisms improve reliability, while adjustment is performed entirely via the crown. This eliminates the need for case correctors or specialized tools, a small but significant improvement for owners.
Perspective
The significance of these 38 mm Royal Oak Perpetual Calendars is not about novelty but proportion. The perpetual calendar has been a fixture in the collection for years, always admired for its complexity, but the 41 mm case can come across as assertive, even dominant, depending on the wrist. By introducing a 38 mm format, Audemars Piguet has not changed the essence of the watch, only the way it is worn.
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