Tudor at Watches & Wonders
While much of the watch world continues to shrink its case sizes in pursuit of vintage proportions and wrist-friendly comfort, Tudor has taken a different route this year. With the introduction of the Black Bay 68 in a bold 43 millimeter case, the brand sends a clear message. This is not a company that simply follows trends. It listens, refines, and responds with intention.
Across the board, Tudor new lineups build on what has already worked. These are not radical departures or attention-seeking novelties. They are quiet, thoughtful evolutions that speak to long-term owners as much as new buyers.
Black Bay 68
The Black Bay 68 is perhaps the most direct example of Tudor charting its own path. While other brands focus on scaling down, Tudor offers a larger format for those who found the Black Bay 58 and even the 41 millimeter Monochrome a bit too restrained. With this model, Tudor meets a new audience without diluting the DNA of the Black Bay line.
The dial options are understated yet effective. You can choose between a sun-brushed silver or Tudor Blue, both giving a modern edge without the need for gold accents or faux vintage patina. The watch also debuts a cleaner three-link bracelet with a T-fit clasp and no faux-rivets. As someone who appreciates function and comfort in a daily piece, this version feels right. It also uses the Manufacture Calibre MT5601-U, a larger movement that matches the increased case size and carries METAS Master Chronometer certification for precision and durability.
This is not a watch for everyone, but that is exactly why it matters. It offers something fresh within a familiar frame and steps away from the herd in the process.
Black Bay 58 Burgundy
Tudor has given the Black Bay 58 a deeper level of technical legitimacy by upgrading it to METAS certification. The new burgundy dial brings a subtle twist on a well-loved model, and the addition of the 5-link bracelet rounds out the package. At 39 millimeters, it still wears perfectly for those who prefer classic proportions, but the added precision and resistance to magnetic fields make this more than just a cosmetic refresh. The color has to be experienced in person.
Black Bay Chrono
For me personally, the new Black Bay Chrono stands out. The opaline dial with black sub-dials delivers a strong visual contrast that collectors often associate with classic chronograph layouts. At 41 millimeters, it has just the right wrist presence. It is a sports watch, but it avoids that heavy, oversized feel that sometimes comes with the category.
What impressed me most is the 5-link bracelet. It wears beautifully and feels more refined than the older 3-link rivet-style design. The T-fit clasp makes a real difference in everyday wear. Being able to adjust the bracelet on the fly is not just convenient, it is something every steel bracelet should offer. The Chrono still runs on the MT5813 movement, a collaborative build with Breitling. It is reliable, COSC-certified, and brings solid specs including a column wheel and vertical clutch.
Pelagos Ultra
The Pelagos Ultra is Tudor at its most technical. This 43 millimeter titanium dive watch pushes the depth rating to 1000 meters. It comes with a redesigned bracelet and clasp that includes a visual indicator for adjustment position, as well as a backup rubber strap. The luminescence is dual-color for legibility at depth, and the watch runs on the METAS-certified MT5612-U calibre. While few people will ever need a watch that can perform at this level, that is not the point. The Pelagos Ultra shows what Tudor is capable of when it builds with no limitations in mind.
Black Bay Pro
Finally, the Black Bay Pro returns with a clean opaline dial. Still housed in a 39 millimeter case, it keeps its GMT function and yellow 24-hour hand. The black-outlined ceramic hour markers offer improved legibility, and the watch continues to be offered on a rivet-style bracelet, fabric strap, or a hybrid rubber and leather option. It may not be the flashiest release, but it adds value through small improvements and keeps the Pro feeling current without losing its tool-watch identity.
Final Thoughts
Tudor’s 2025 releases are not about chasing headlines. They are about refinement, usability, and offering something that aligns with how people actually wear their watches. The 68 takes a deliberate step in the opposite direction of the current industry trend, offering size without sacrificing comfort or design integrity. The Chrono hits a personal sweet spot with its balanced case, striking dial, and improved bracelet. And the expansion of METAS certification across the lineup signals a real commitment to quality that goes deeper than appearances.
Tudor is not chasing anyone this year. It is simply building better versions of what it already does best. And that, in a landscape filled with noise, speaks volumes.
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